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Thread: Brick on Pedal
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01-11-12, 09:09 PM #12
Re: Brick on Pedal
X-keys Hands Free Foot Pedals
I've got the three button one but haven't plugged it in yet
The software is nasty though but it is app aware.
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01-19-12, 01:31 PM #16
Re: Brick on Pedal
if your doing all this because you are in need of additional, reachable keys. Consider moving to the ESDF axis, i've used it from literally day 1, i've never played an hour on the wasd axis. Comes in extremely handy on games with excessive unique key functions (UT for example, need 10 reachable keys around the movement axes for quick weapon selection). BF3 as well... i have quickspot bound to w, with q as my last weapon. I've never, ever needed to bind anything to mouse (save push to talk, was you need to use a finger thats always accessible and with your left ring, middle, index, and thumb occupied with movement and jump, you need a consistently free finger (yes i know thumb is not a 'finger')
For me, wasd is so damn awkard on pinky reaches and index extensions. Not to mention the awkward wrist angle.
accessible keys:
esdf-25 (all comfortable)
wsad-~20 (with awkward keys included), 16 if you only include comfortable key reaches.
IMO, wsad is stupid, uses a small fraction of the keyboard.
Scion, you'll find that many applications that interact with they keyboard differently. If you are determined to use that peddle, i'd wager it's a foreign keypress signal, so many (if not all) games will not detect the signal, as they only listen to the standard keyboard presses, some even hook low level input and prevent external keypresses (bf3 for example, if you have a media keyboard, youll notice alot of the keys will not work, for example to play and control music app while in game). To get consistent, reliable detection, if binding program allows, bind the keypeddle to a keyboard stroke (probably something far away from your movement axis like opl,.;/'[]\). If the program does not allow this or if i understand correctly, blocks keyboard input while being pressed:
As a last resort, uninstall the binding app, leaving only the driver installed (if you cannot do this, uninstall the whole damn thing, then remove the device, reboot, insert the device, if windows does not 'omg new device', goto start menu -> right click my computer -> advanced-> advanced or something.... -> device manager, find it in that list and remove it. This may (and hopefully will) remove all traces.
It should now display as a yellow question mark in device manager, right click -> find driver or the like, or windows should be asking what to do to find the driver, click manually select/find-> search the install cd they gave you, if windows gives you an option for searching subdirectories select it. I think drivers are sys or something? Look for that on the cd and select it and install. Or if its just a download, try opening the executable with 7zip (right click the file-> 7zip->open archive) (this is most reliable, fuck windows zip and winrar). Most installers are archives, you should be able to find a .sys in the exe and extract and install this, if its annoying, the contents of the installer.exe will be obfuscated (the names of the files displayed inside the archive will appear to be quite random) then you may be up 'shit creek' so to speak.
After all this, use autohotkey and see if it detects the signal, if it does make a quick script to map it to a standard keyboard key (autohotkey's help is actually very, very helpful. Example of remapping a key should be on or linked from, the initial help menu page, and how to detect custom sigals should be linked on the page that lists all the autohotkey representation of key presses)
example of a remap i use on my laptop to rebind the right, right-click button to another windows-flag key:
Code:APPSKEY::LWin
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