Hot tub question

**deputyfestus** · 07-10-12, 10:20 PM

Sounds like you have flow switch problem which is causing the error code. I don't know what yours may look like but these may help in locating it. A simple continuity test with a multimeter would tell if it;s operating properly. Examples : water flow switch | eBay

**Bubbasam** · 07-11-12, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by deputyfestus

Sounds like you have flow switch problem which is causing the error code. I don't know what yours may look like but these may help in locating it. A simple continuity test with a multimeter would tell if it;s operating properly. Examples : water flow switch | eBay

Thanks Deputy...I'll check it out when I get home.

**Bubbasam** · 07-12-12, 10:10 AM

Originally Posted by deputyfestus

Sounds like you have flow switch problem which is causing the error code. I don't know what yours may look like but these may help in locating it. A simple continuity test with a multimeter would tell if it;s operating properly. Examples : water flow switch | eBay

I don't want to sound stupid Deputy, but I'm going to anyway. Would the spa have to be on to check the continuity or can I check it while it is off? I have drained the water in anticipation of replacing the whole guts, but this part is only $35 and if it is what is causing my alarm, I'll fill it back up in order to turn it on to test it.

**Nuckle** · 07-12-12, 10:15 AM

Switches can be checked while off and disconnected most of the time so long as you do not have a coil that is breaking down under a load.

Remove the wires from the switch. Place an ohm meter on the two contacts. Operate the switch by hand (if possible) see if you got from 0 or close to 0 ohm's to infinite or extremely high resistance.

If you do it while it is running I would suggest that you check for voltage rather than ohms. In this case you would want to determine where the voltage enters the switch. Test to see if voltage is present. Activate switch and see if voltage is present on the other side.

Make sense?

**Bubbasam** · 07-12-12, 11:02 AM

Originally Posted by Nuckle

Switches can be checked while off and disconnected most of the time so long as you do not have a coil that is breaking down under a load.

Remove the wires from the switch. Place an ohm meter on the two contacts. Operate the switch by hand (if possible) see if you got from 0 or close to 0 ohm's to infinite or extremely high resistance.

If you do it while it is running I would suggest that you check for voltage rather than ohms. In this case you would want to determine where the voltage enters the switch. Test to see if voltage is present. Activate switch and see if voltage is present on the other side.

Make sense?

Yup...thanks Nuckle !

**Bubbasam** · 07-20-12, 04:25 PM

Originally Posted by Nuckle

Switches can be checked while off and disconnected most of the time so long as you do not have a coil that is breaking down under a load.

Remove the wires from the switch. Place an ohm meter on the two contacts. Operate the switch by hand (if possible) see if you got from 0 or close to 0 ohm's to infinite or extremely high resistance.

If you do it while it is running I would suggest that you check for voltage rather than ohms. In this case you would want to determine where the voltage enters the switch. Test to see if voltage is present. Activate switch and see if voltage is present on the other side.

Make sense?

Ok....took off wires to the switch. Resistance is infinity. Switch bad?

**deputyfestus** · 07-20-12, 07:19 PM

When you operate the switch does the resistance remain the same, do you have continuity or lack of when switch is in operating position which I'm guessing would be closed in order to energize the heater circuit.

**Bubbasam** · 07-21-12, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by deputyfestus

When you operate the switch does the resistance remain the same, do you have continuity or lack of when switch is in operating position which I'm guessing would be closed in order to energize the heater circuit.

I'm gonna have to take a pic of the switch to see if that will help. I don't see any way to "operate" the switch - unless I'm missing something. When I get home I'll try to take some pics so you can maybe help me a little more.

**Bubbasam** · 07-21-12, 03:15 PM

Ok...there is a red button that is moveable (I'm assuming it's the switch activater) and when I press it in my resistance goes to zero. Now the red button doesn't engage, or lock in, it simply can be pushed in and it automatically returns to a normal (not sure if this is the right term) position. Should this switch click to an engaged position, or is it normal to return back to where it was. It seems kinda spring loaded.

**deputyfestus** · 07-21-12, 06:31 PM

It's activated by water flow, there should be some type of mechanism that engages the switch when water is flowing. the switch is set to be in a normally open or closed position and yes it is spring loaded. the question i have is your reading the same in both positions or does it change when moved or clicked. it sounds like a simple micro switch. how many terminals, i'm guessing 2 maybe 3 with one being common. basically it's a momentary light switch with water flow acting as your finger, as long as your finger or (water flow) is pressing the switch and the contacts within the switch are in good shape the light or unit will stay on and vise a versa. examples:https://www.google.com/search?q=micr...w=1920&bih=951