Thread: Anyone ride dirt bikes?

Well.... I did. I started riding motocross when I was 12 and just recently sold my CRF 250 R a couple months ago. Baby on the way... time for a break until he is big enough to ride. I raced motocross around southern California, Glen Helen etc.... and did some Desert racing in my younger days, D37.




The bike you get should really depend on your skill level, intended use and budget. As much as I love modern four strokes, the cost to maintain them properly in ridiculous. I rode 80s and 125s forever. Got a 250F when they first came out, loved it, blew it up, fixed it, sold it and got a 450. Got hurt pretty seriously, sold it, took a year off and got another 250F.

Any modern four stroke, R model, will have titanium valves. Quick revs are great for skilled riders but the heads wear out quickly, well, the valves, seats, springs etc.... IF you dont have them adjusted and they crash be prepared to drop at least a grand into the head and maybe more if the piston dets. A 450 doesnt rev as high, almost, but I highly doubt you are going to ring out a 450. If you are more power to you! For your size and what it sounds like what you want to do, in an ideal world where you have the money and can ride it properly (the more power you have the more it wears you out) a 450 is ideal. I dont think a 250F would be enough for someone your size. I would ride and it will scare you but you would over work the thing if you rode it hard. I'm 5'11" and 175, in my prime I stressed my little 250Fs.

I am kind of on the 2 stroke bandwagon right now. I would probably pick up a KTM 250 or a clean used 06 or 07 CR 250. I like the fact you can flog them and rebuild them in your garage in an evening after work for 120$. They are harder to ride, not too much really, require pre-mixing (but that smell!) and aren't as "Cool". But you wont ever have to tell your buddies you cant ride because you need a couple thousand to rebuild your motor. Hell you can probably pick up a clean CR250 for a couple thousand.

Ill weigh pros and cons.

Used 250 2 stroke
PROS
- Anvil like reliability
- Cheap to repair and maintain (Trans oil, filter, chain, pre-mix)
- A blast to ride and wont kill the pocket book. (2000-3500 MAX)
- At 3500 you should expect some upgrades, pipe, bars, clamps suspension etc....
- Did I mention you can race these with the 250 four strokes? Holeshot....

CONS
- Harder to ride
- Older technology
- Doesnt have the new cool factor.

USED 250 Four Stroke
CONS
- You never know what you will get, these are race bikes and most people that have any time on them abuse them and dont maintain them.
- Dont do it... serisouly, dont get a used 250F unless you know the REAL history of it, they are time bombs.
- You're too big....

PROS
- They are a blast to ride. You can flick and stick them. Wont wear you out like a 250 T or a 450 F.

Used 450 4 Stroke
PROS
- Un-godly fast.....
- More reliable than a 250F.
- You are in the elite club of 450F riders and can go 50ish mph in 2nd gear.
- Tractor like torque
- Did I say fast?

CONS
- Expensive
- Expensive to maintain
- Will wear you out quick if you aren't riding properly or are out of shape at all.

All in all, just get something you like, and enjoy to ride. Do your maintenance and you will be fine. Its an expensive sport no matter what you do. You will need a spark arrestor on any bike to ride anywhere except close circuit courses (tracks). Always make sure you have all the right gear, and it fits right. Never skimp on a Helmet or Boots, you wont regret spending 1k$ on those two items, trust me. Just have fun and dont burn yourself out.

Well that is a great looking bike and having owned 2 of the same generation (1st GEN frame) I know A LOT about this machine. I know you will enjoy it and as much as I can argue about "Explosive Power" this is a VERY FUN bike.

This bike has aftermarket Rotors, a nice addition but you wonder why unless the person was either extremely fast, bent them or beat the OE ones to death. The pegs look OE but may have been sharpened? Handlebar clamps for what looks like 1-1/8th Renthals, a good addition but I hope they are still rubber mounted. Glide / Skid plan, a MUST on these bike. Hopefully it covers the shift side ignition cover, those things are magnesium and stick out way too far to ride any kind of trails without a good skid/glide plate.... I busted one and was lucky enough to notice it before it dumped all its oil. The header looks FMF but I cant see the cans, Hopefully they are FMF with spark arrestors for trail riding, if they arent you will have to buy a new mid pipe (for one muffler) and a muffler or two mufflers. Check the packing on these regardless of what your seller says. A poorly packed muffler will burn your motor up (not enough back pressure).

Here is a list of things I would check before purchase (if you already haven't). Like I said I have had 2 of these and they are GREAT bikes.
- Sprocket bolts / Hub wear in the rear. These bolts are notorious for coming loose and ruining the magnesium hubs.
- Chain roller wear, if they aren't new, chain roller wear is the easiest indication of used bike wear.
- Ask about jetting, if he changed the header he should have re-jetted the bike, this isn't EFI. If he hasn't starting can be an issue but like you said you will learn how to start the bike, the are all unique.
- Check the front fork seals. The suspension is stock valving and hopefully he has had the front (at least) serviced once. If there is any kind of oily film towards the bottom of the legs, you have a blown seal (150$ at least).
- Check lateral (left to right) swing arm play. There will always be some but if it clunks or seems like more than..... lets ay 3/8" play the bearings are worn and, like chain rollers, is a good indication of wear.
- The hard thing about these is there is no good indication of wear on the motor except taking it apart. He may say it has time left but you never really know. I have friends that rode much faster than me and they needed valve adjustments every 3 motos (track days). Where as aguy like me could easily go 12-20 rides.
- For the love of god PLEASE take off the seat and look at the air filter. People under-estimate the importance of this. If he is as maintenance minded as he says the air box should be clean, like clean black plastic, nothing clumped at the bottom and the filter should be in good condition. Touch it with your index finger and wipe from bottom up. It should have some oil, not too much, and NO dirt on it. If its dry, its been sitting, if its dirty, its neglected. There are no ifs, and or buts about this. This is the number one thing you do.
- If you can drain the oil, or have him pull the check plug. We all know what motor oil should look like. The trans may have some metal shavings in it, very small, that's normal its clutch material. The engine could be darker but just make sure it doesn't look black or smelled burned.
- Check the spokes and wheels for true. Take a big screw driver or a medium wrench and run it across them for sound (like a tuning fork). They should all sound the same. Things ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding..... If you hear ding, ding, ding, dunk, ding.... there is a loose spoke. If you hear ding, ding, ding, TINK, ding, there is a tight spoke and the other side of that spoke will probably be a dunk. Wheel out of round. It can be fixed but should be taken care of.
- Lastly, the bike looks VERY stock, which is actually great. You don't get the cool goodies but that also means things weren't broken or replaced because of wear (the brake discs are my only concern).

All I can say is if you get a good feel from the guy (nice tools, clean shop, etc....) he is probably on the up and up and you will get a great bike. Your slush fun is a great idea but I wouldnt wait for things to break, be pro-active and make sure the bolts are tight (not too tight) and you will have a safe and reliable time on the bike. Change your oil every couple rides and do an oil-filter change every other time. It may be excessive but the bike will thank you later. Get the highest octane gas you can, race gas in a stock bike can pro-long life. I used to run 99 octane (local pump) in my mostly stock motors and the power + longevity out weighs going out and buying aftermarket parts for the bike.

Have FUN and let us know how you turn out and when you start riding. Elbows up, head up and squeeze that baby with your knees until the graphics rub off.

Originally Posted by Muqtar

I went today and could not pull the trigger on it. I had several people tell me that I should walk away due to the valve question. They were shimmed this week, but I was worried. Another thing is that I can't start the bike. Weak legs? No technique ? Not man enough? I dont know but I couldn't get it started. The guy could though, so I suspect it is all me.

I started looking at 2 strokes, because the valve issue just worries me. I know top ends occur, but I dont know if they occur as often or seem to be as big of a problem.

I have to tell you that I went and looked at this one, its pricey, but the deal on this one is the best one I have found yet (for the model). My wife seems on board, and I dont think it would take too long to bring the cash to the right point.

KTM 2014 KTM 250 XC

Gonzo? Guys? Should I just stick with my 4 wheelers? The high isn't the same.

I personally hate quads. A dirt bike you can ditch a quad will chase you down and run you over (it happened to me).

Starting a bike takes technique, if the guy can start it quickly, its just you, sorry.
2 strokes are awesome but they are beasts. KTMs are great bikes, best 2 strokes made right now since all the other major manufacturers ditched the R&D on them. Top ends happen lets say, once a year at most unless you are hauling major ass. If you have some mechanical know how they are easy to do. I was doing them by myself after school when I was 15. If you have someone show you once or twice you'll be fine. Honestly though, some people dont ever do them, its not as important on 250s as 125s. It wont hurt anything if you dont do them, you will just loose some power VERY gradually.
The XC has some extra weight with the lights, tank, kick stand etc... but it will be more durable. Also it has a heavier fly wheel if I am not mistaken and will smooth the power out.
Think long and hard, like cars, as soon as you get the tires dirty the re-sale value drops like a rock. Also remember that bike will run with a Corvette 1/8th mile drag race (if you dont loop). They are fast buddy, adrenaline pumping, best feeling in the world fast.